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Get all your components ready for assembly, check with the parts list to verify that you have everything necessary. |
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We'll begin soldering with the IC socket. Use a piece of scotch tape or your finger to hold it down while you're soldering (if you opt for the finger, make sure you don't touch the metal part - it gets hot!). Also, don't put the microchip in yet, it's better to not have to worry about overheating it when soldering. |
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Flip the board over and carefully solder the socket in. |
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Next we'll solder in the optional ICSP header. This is used for reprogramming the device. Again, use scotch tape or a finger to hold it steady when soldering. |
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The next two pieces are the diodes. Be careful! These must be properly oriented! Look on the PCB for the white stripe, the diode also has a white stripe and these must be lined up. Bend the leads about 45 degrees outward to hold them in while soldering. |
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After soldering the diodes, clip the leads with diagonal clippers. I picked up these 'nippy cutters' at Radioshack for a few bucks. |
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Next we'll solder in the two small, yellow .1uF capacitors. Bend these leads the same way you bent the diodes for soldering. Agian, clip them when you're finished. Unlike the diodes, these can be inserted either way (not true for the other two capacitors - keep that in mind). |
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The ceramic resonator, used to keep accurate timing is inserted next to the microchip socket. Use scotch tape to hold this in while soldering. You may also want to clip these leads when finished. |
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The switch is the next component. It will snap in easily so you won't have to hold it while soldering. |
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Next we'll insert the 100uF capacitors, these are polarized! The PCB has a small + next to the hole into which the longer lead is inserted. |
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Insert the two 1kOhm resistors. These are non-polarized, so they can face either direction.. |
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The two visible LEDs come next. Due to the metal flags on the leads of the LEDs, you will want to clip directly ABOVE these so the LEDs will fit flushly in with the board. Confused? The LEDs have a flat side (the same side as the short lead) which corresponds to the silkscreen on the PCB. |
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Insert the 3-pin header. This will be used to tell your device whether it should be running or programming. If the shunt (small black cover) is on the right, the device will run but will not be programmable, to program the device, the shunt must be moved to the two left pins. |
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Now it's time to insert the first (of nine) transistors. All the transistors have a rounded edge that must face away from the LEDs (as shown on the silkscreen of the PCB). The leads will need to be bent into a slightly triangular shape to fit. |
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Begin to insert and solder all of your 47Ohm resistors, again these can face any direction. |
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After that, the other eight transistors need to be soldered in. Remember to align the curved side with the diagram on the PCB |
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Next insert the LEDs. The longer lead must face the right side of the board (from the angle in the picture)! |
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The board is finished. Now it's time to mount it on a battery case (or a concealment of your own). |
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Using sticky foam tape and hot glue, the PCB can be easily mounted to the top of a 4xAA or 4xAAA battery case. Clip the wires to about 1.5"-2". Then solder the red wire to the + side of BATT1 and the black wire to the - side of BATT1. A small dab of hot glue will prevent this wire from getting broken. |
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