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Get all your components ready for assembly, check with the parts list to verify that you have everything necessary. |
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We'll begin soldering with the IC socket. Use a piece of scotch tape to hold it down while you're soldering. Also, don't put the microchip in yet, it's better to not have to worry about overheating it when soldering. |
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Flip the board over and carefully solder the socket in. |
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Next we'll solder the switch in. It should snap in, so you won't have to worry about it falling out when you solder it. |
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The next piece we're going to solder is the ceramic resonator. This piece is necessary since TVs need very accurate timing to recognize remote control commands. You will need tape to hold this piece in. |
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After soldering the resonator, clip the leads with diagonal clippers. I picked up these 'nippy cutters' at Radioshack for a few bucks. |
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The design of the PCB requires that we bend all of our resistors to look like this so they'll fit in. |
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Insert your resistor and bend each lead out about 45 degrees (not shown) so they'll stay in place. After soldering the resistor, clip its leads. |
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Insert the transistor next to the resistor. Be very careful - The transistor must be inserted in the proper direction. The front is round and that side faces away from the microchip (look at the picture and the silkscreen). Clip the leads and repeat this for the next four resistors and transistors. |
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Next we'll insert the .1uF capacitor, this is the small yellow one. This capacitor is non-polarized, so it can be inserted in either direction. Bend the leads out like the resistors and clip the leads after soldering. |
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We will now insert the resistor for the indicator LED. It's just like the other five resistors; insert, bend, solder, clip. |
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The visible LED comes next. Again, this is polarized, watch the direction! The longer lead faces the edge of the board!. |
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Bend all of your infrared LEDs to look like this. Notice that the longer lead is on the inside. |
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Your IR LEDs will now slip in easily. Solder them one at a time. Next insert the 100uF capacitor. This one is polarized too, the longer lead faces the IR LEDs. The LEDs should hold the capacitor in tightly enough to solder it without worry of it falling out. Clip the leads when you're down. |
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FINISHED! On to the battery case (if you want). If you are using the 3xAA method, or any concealment that uses 4.5V, CAREFULLY use an X-Acto knife to cut the lead marked 'Cut' on the bottom of the PCB. This will put the CHiP into high-powered mode. |
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Open the battery case and remove the switch cover. To do this you will need to unscrew it and you may need to use some force, however you do not need to save it. |
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Clip about two inches from the black lead. You will need to solder this new wire to the spring opposite the one closest to the switch (this is on the left side of the picture)(the metal doesn't holder solder well, make sure it's soldered to the spring). Solder the other end to the middle lead on the switch. Then use pliers to remove the spring closest to the switch |
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Using a dremel or diagonal cutters, removed about a 1" piece from the container. |
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You will also need to remove a small bit from the top case. |
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Pull both the black and red wires into the case (they originally ran outside via a small rectangular opening). Twist teh end of the black wire so the end isn't frayed. These are now your positive and negative leads. Solder them into their respective spots on the PCB (The red one goes next to the CHiP logo and the black one gues between the transistors). |
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Now I recommend using hot glue to hold your finished product together in two places. Firstly since we removed the black plastic switch cover, hold glue is required to hold the switch in. Secondly use a small amount under the LEDs, don't use too much in case you need to remove the board later
Enjoy!. |
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